How to Work a Collar with The Cocoknits Method

Learn how to work an integrated (and nearly seamless) Collar in Cocoknits Method patterns. This technique is used in Lizzie, Franca, Kiki, Eva, and Sarah. The Collar is started at the back of the neck before picking up stitches for the Shoulders. Instructions will be provided in the pattern, but it can be difficult to visualize so Julie will walk you through it in this video. There are also step-by-step instructions below. In both, you'll learn how the Collar is started and incorporated into the rest of the garment. Once you get the hang of it, we promise, you'll want this stunning textural detail on every cardigan you knit. 



Create Upper Back

The first thing you'll do is Section 1 of the pattern: creating the Upper Back. To orient yourself: the initial Cast-On is the Back Neck, the slopes are your Shoulders. 


Prep Right Collar

The instructions will tell you to do a Provisional Cast-On. Here's a tutorial with our preferred method "How to Provisional Cast On with Judy’s Magic CO." If you're not a fan of the Provisional Cast-On you have the option to use whatever Cast-On you prefer, but you will have an additional seam at the back of the Collar. After you've Cast-On, knit as instructed in the pattern to prep the Right Collar. 



Align Collar with Upper Back

Lay out your Upper Back so the right side is facing up. Align the prepped Collar so your Cast-On is centered at the Back Neck. We recommend using our Claw Clips to secure the knitting where it needs to be while you complete the next step.




Pick Up & Knit Right Shoulder Stitches

You will pick up and knit along the Right Shoulder (the right slope of the Upper Back). The number of stitches you'll need to pick up is written into the pattern. Julie's technique for picking up stitches imitates a seam and ensures a tight join with no gaps. We have a great tutorial to help you with this technique if you're unfamiliar "How to Pick-up Stitches for the Cocoknits Method." 


Integrate Collar

Now it's time to integrate the Collar! You'll knit your picked up stitches, place a marker (so you know which stitches are the Shoulder and which are the Collar), and work across Collar stitches as the pattern directs you. 


Finish Right Shoulder

Finish Right Shoulder as your pattern directs you. Put your Right Shoulder stitches on hold.


Complete Other Side

Either continue prepping Left Shoulder as directed from your live Provisional Cast-On stitches or prep the Left Collar with a regular Cast-On and secure in place with Claw Clips prior to picking up Left Shoulder stitches and integrating.  


Continue with Sweater and Seam

From here, you'll knit across the Left Front, pick up Sleeve stitches, knit the Back, and continue to right side - just as you would with any other Cocoknits Method pattern. You can finish your sweater first, or seam the Collar as soon as the work is done! If you used the Provisional Cast-On you'll only need to seam the Back Neck to the Collar. If you used a regular Cast-On you'll also need to seam the two Cast-On edges of the Collar pieces. 

Helpful seaming tutorials: 

How to Join a Vertical to Horizontal Seam

How to Join a Vertical to Vertical Seam (False Grafting) 



Hi Judith,
If you are a Ravelry user, there are a lot of pictures on the Franca KAL progress thread in our forum. Otherwise, we hope that this tutorial, along with the tutorial will give you what you need. Hope that helps!

Judith Paster

It would be helpful to see the first few rows of working the PCO left collar joining with the ladder stitches on the left back.

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