In Cocoknits Sweater Workshop, I explain the Cocoknits Method which uses a new tool – the Cocoknits Worksheet. The colored vertical lines on the columns of the Cocoknits Worksheet correspond to the borders of sections of your sweater: left front, left sleeve, back, right sleeve, and right front. When you select the pattern you’d like to make and have double checked that your yarn is the right gauge, fill in the stitch quantities for each section from your pattern into your Worksheet. As you set up your knitting, you will place a stitch marker of the same color as the corresponding line on your Worksheet at the border of each section.
We offer a variety of stitch markers that we created specifically to go along with this worksheet, browse all of the options here.
Then just follow along with the increases and shaping you’ve filled into your Worksheet from your chosen pattern. You’ll be able to see at a glance where and when to increase without having to continually refer to the written pattern. And if you put your knitting down for a few days (or a few years), it’s very easy to see where you left off in your pattern just by checking the stitch count between the markers.
The Cocoknits Worksheet can then be your own customized pattern to make in other colorways and yarns. You can also use Cocoknits Worksheets to plan out any other seamless yoked sweater patterns.
For a video tutorial, watch Why & How to Use a Cocoknits Sweater Worksheet.
We don’t recommend Molly as a first sweater, or first Cocoknits Method sweater, because of the use of short rows in the neckline. However, you are in luck because the Mabel sweater, which we are currently knitting along on, also uses short rows to shape the neck and there are a lot of resources to help. At the top of the main page on our website, choose KAL, then “Julie’s Mabel.” Look under Weeks 3&4 for resources to help with the worksheet, including a YouTube playlist where Julie talks you through the project, including the worksheet. Good luck and please email us at firstname.lastname@example.org if you have more questions.
I am so confused on filling out the Cocoknits worksheet for the molly. Admittedly, I am a first time sweater knitter (have done a couple socks getting ready for this). I understood filling out the worksheet up until I get to the fronts (more specifically the neckline) . I have read/reread my book to no avail, do you have any additional pointers? Thank you!
Start with re-reading p. 28-35 of Cocoknits Sweater Workshop. If you still need help, email us at email@example.com. Please be as specific as you can about the issue you are having. Good luck!
Hi, I’m knitting the Kiki sweater and am having trouble translating the increases for the neckline and armhole from the pattern to my worksheet. Where can I get help?
We strongly recommend you have the Cocoknits Sweater Workshop to knit any of the Extended Collection patterns like June. The book teaches the Cocoknits Method for knitting top-down seamless sweaters, and the Extended Collection patterns refer to the book. If you would like to attempt to knit any of these patterns without the book, you can. The patterns are complete on their own and come with the worksheet. However, they refer to techniques used in the Cocoknits Method, which are explained fully in the book, so they might not include everything you need.
A lot of the techniques are also here on the website under Knit Tutorials. Hope that helps!
I am thinking of purchasing the pattern for June. The pattern indicates that this is a Cocoknits method pattern, but being a budget knitter my question would be; do I have to invest in the the Cocoknits method work book in order to complete this sweater. Thank you.
Hi Paula, You can purchase the pad of worksheets by clicking Make at the top of this page, then scroll down to Sweater Worksheet Journal, click on it, and follow the directions to finish your purchase. These are also available at Local Yarn Shops. Please feel free to email us at firstname.lastname@example.org for more help.
Sorry I didn’t get your reply until just this minute – my fault, I had just put everything away. The sample chart has gone – who knows where – . Could you send me a copy so I can copy. I thought I had read somewhere they could be purchased by the pad. Anxious to start again.
The basic idea of the chart is to combine all those “at the same time” directions into one place, so you can knit your sweater yoke line by line and not worry about forgetting an increase somewhere. Pages 28-35 have step by step directions for filling out the worksheet. You start by noting the number of rows that will be in your yoke and drawing a line there on the worksheet. Then whatever Cocoknits pattern you are knitting takes you through filling in increases for each part of the sweater. Once you’ve read through the book instructions, you can also find resources on the website to help. For example, if you go to the Learn tab on our website and click “Julie’s Toni” you can click on a link to videos Julie made (available on Instagram or Youtube) during our current Knit-a-Long. The worksheet starts on the 26th short video. Please feel free to email us at email@example.com if you need more help—we can send you links to the various resources. Hope that helps! As you say, once you’ve learned the system, you can regularly make beautifully fitting sweaters.
I’ve had your book for 2 years. Cannot figure out how to input info (or what info) on the chart. I can really understand the value of the charting. I’ve been knitting for 60+ years so reading patterns and cable, lace patterns is not foreign. I’ve been trying my best to puzzle this out to no avail. Just put it away and do my (alabet often too long, too wide, etc) thing. You can probably surmise that I’m 80 yo but my brain is still very active. I’d love a step by step how-to for the chart. I’ve done the yolk – w/o chart – and knitted sweater for granddaughter per her “instructions” and she loves it.
I would be knocking sweaters if you could help me with a how-to chart step by step🤨
Hi Lee Ann,
Thank you for the suggestion! In the mean time, we hope you find it helpful to print a second copy onto the back of your first or use a second page in the journal by adding a 5 before the 1, etc. We also hear from people who love making it into a computer spreadsheet – which would allow you to have as many rows as you would like.
Maybe revamping the work sheet to be double sided would help those of us working the larger sizws
Thanks for asking! The Everlasting KAL is going live on Friday 1/28/22, so you can find it on the Making page that day.
Good idea to join us as you knit your Emma!
I can’t seem to find the everlasting KAL on the making page. I’m doing Emma (my first sweater ever) and following along with the KAL for Emma but thought the other KAL would be useful to watch as well.
Julie doesn’t have any in-person classes planned at this time. She is teaching on Vogue Knitting Live, which you may already be signed up for.
Great to hear you are ready to knit along! We are starting our “Everlasting Knit-a-Long” on 1/28/22 and we’ll be providing lots of support and information via email, here on the website, on Instagram, and on Ravelry. Be sure to sign up on 1/28 by clicking on the KAL page in the making section and you will be knitting along with the Cocoknits team. Even though we are knitting Toni, we will be providing tons of info for the Cocoknits method and Emma is a perfect first sweater.
Let us know at firstname.lastname@example.org if you have questions.
Looking forward to knitting with you!
I am sooo interested in a VKA virtual knit along. I’m working the Emma A in medium so I think I can follow the example from my book. But I still have many questions. I live in San Luis Obispo and if you offer a workshop I’d be soo down to come to Oakland.
Im so excited about your system.
So glad you’ve liked your first two sweaters! You should have a total of 18 increases on each front (4 on the neck side and 14 by the armhole. Starting with 13 stitches, you get 13+18=31 on each side for a total of 62. Then adding in the CO stitches: 62+24=86. Hope that helps! Please feel free to email us at email@example.com if that doesn’t make sense.
Hi, I am embarking on my third Cocoknits sweater, and found the first two (both cardigans) easy and they fit really well. I love the method. However, I am baffled by the worksheet for Molly version A, size large. After entering all the increases, I get 77 stitches for the right front and 53 for the left (they are different because one has the 24 cast on). This makes a total of 320, when it should be 276. All the other sections are correct. I’ve gone over it again and again and can’t see where I’ve gone wrong. Help please!
Unfortunately, the neckline stitches joining the fronts are cast on at row 17 of the yoke worksheet, so you will have to rip back to that row. Be sure to read through pages 100 and 101 to get all the instructions that should be included on the worksheet. Once you have cast on the front neckline stitches, you will be doing the regular increases as well as working short rows to shape the neckline. We hope you love your Molly! Please feel free to email us at firstname.lastname@example.org if you need more help.
Hi I am working molly version B. I have completed the first 36 rows. I have stitch count of 19,44,68,44,19 which I believe is the correct number for size small. I am confused where I go next. do I complete a new work sheet to start shaping the neckline? If so do I put the above stitch count at top of worksheet and go from there? Am I even close to doing it correctly? Thanks for your help
Check out the filled out worksheet at the end of this article. It shows you the basic way your worksheet should look. Your sleeve increases should be on the right of the violet, left of the blue, right of the orange and left of the green markers/lines. The back increases go to the left of the blue and right of the orange. Hope that helps! Feel free to email us at email@example.com if you have more questions.
I need help. I am knitting the Lucia sweater and I’m not sure how to fill out the worksheet.
I placed my increases at each edge of each sleeves…so I placed them before and after the marker. Is that correct?
Because the edges of the sleeves border the back. Now the next step in filling out the worksheet is placing in the increase stitches for the back section. Do I add more increases in the back section? Please help! I bought the beautiful yarn recommended, and I don’t want to mess it up.
To figure out the length of the upper back on the original, divide the number of rows knit (11 in your example, including the setup row) and divide by the row gauge from p. 59 (4.5 rows per inch for Emma). This gives you 2.44 inches). For other interested knitters, Carolyn will then multiply the length by her row gauge, to decide how many rows to knit for her upper back. If you have any other questions, feel free to email us at firstname.lastname@example.org. Enjoy!
I am working on Emma B, second size with a medium weight yarn, 7 needle, and gauge 6/inch. Using that gauge, I cast on 36 sts. and have knit 10 rows. Obviously the different gauge from pattern means recalculation. In inches, how long is it from top to end of the increases?
Julie found that adding more rows to the worksheet made the print too small to be legible, so we recommend using a second worksheet to continue. You can print out a second one from your pattern, use a second page in the worksheet journal, or take a picture of the worksheet in the book and print that out. If you
stop after row 50, the second worksheet is easy to renumber because you can just add a 5 to row “1” to make it “51”, etc. Enjoy your Cocoknits sweater!
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