How to Add a Zipper to Your Knits

With the zipper closed, line it up to where it will be sewn onto your garment edge. Place the bottom of the zipper (furthest from the zipper tab) at the bottom hem of your garment, about 1/4-1/2 inch (about 1 cm) from the bottom edge of garment. The top of the zipper will extend up past the collar of your garment - this is fine, as you will trim it later.

Julie lined the vest edge right up to the outer edge of the zipper teeth. Alternately, you can line up the garment edges so they barely touch to create a hidden zipper. Or you can leave extra space between the garment edges (1/8 inch / 1/4 cm or so) to ensure the zipper will not catch in the fabric. Adjust as you prefer for your garment.

Keeping the zipper closed, pin the zipper into the garment at three main points: bottom, top, and center. If your garment has pockets, place pins at the pocket edges so they line up. Place these first few pins vertically (parallel to zipper).

Unzip the zipper, being careful of the pins. Place more pins between the ones you have already placed (either vertically or horizontally is fine).

While technically optional, we highly recommend basting your zipper into the garment. This will make the sewing process (both machine and hand) much easier!

Thread a sewing needle with a length of thread several inches longer than your zipper.

Starting from the bottom, baste using a large running stitch, keeping your stitches closer to the tape edge (away from the zipper teeth). Remove pins as you come to them.

PRO TIP: On the knit side, baste in between the same row of knitted stitches. This will help keep your zipper straight, and leave a neater finish if you decide to leave your basting stitches in.

Stop basting an inch or two from the top edge of your garment, or where the collar begins. Leave a long thread tail so you can finish basting after trimming your zipper.

If your zipper does not need to be trimmed, skip this step.

If your garment has a folded collar:

Unzip the zipper a few inches. Using sharp scissors, cut the zipper at least 3 inches (7.5 cm) longer than where you want it to end.

Fold the zipper at a 45° angle (wrong sides of tape touching) at the spot where you want your zipper to end.

Using a needle and thread, sew a few stitches into the folded zipper tape so that it stays securely folded. 

Using sharp scissors, trim the end of the zipper so about 1/4 inch (1.25 cm) remains past the fold.

With the same basting thread, finish basting up to the end of your zipper.

If your garment does not have a folded collar (not shown in video):

Cut the zipper about 1” longer than needed, then fold it to the back on itself and stitch it so it stays folded. Trim off any excess.

If you choose to sew in your zipper by hand, skip this step and refer to Step 5.

On your sewing machine, install a zipper foot, top stitch thread color that matches your knitting, and bobbin thread color that matches your zipper tape.

With the zipper unzipped and starting from the bottom, use a straight stitch to sew the zipper into the garment, about 1/4 inch (1.25 cm) from the edge of the zipper teeth, leaving enough space for the zipper head to travel easily. Go as slowly as you need!

Optional: Stop sewing about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the end. Cut threads, leaving several inches of top stitch thread. Thread this onto a needle and finish sewing in the zipper by hand.

If you choose to sew in your zipper on the machine, skip this step and refer to Step 4.

Thread a sewing needle with thread that matches the color of your knitted fabric.

Use backstitch to sew the zipper to your garment (one stitch up, half stitch back) about 1/4 inch (1.25 cm) from the edge, leaving enough space for the zipper head to travel easily.

For added reinforcement, you can double back and work a second line of backstitch from top to bottom.

For a cleaner finish and to prevent the edge of your zipper tape from flipping up, use a whipstitch to sew down the edge of your zipper tape on the inside.

If your knitted fabric is a finer gauge, use a thread color that matches your knitted fabric (as the thread may show through to the front). If your fabric is a bulkier gauge, or your zipper tape sits on an i-cord edge like the Flynn vest, use a thread color that matches your zipper tape.

If your garment has a folded collar like our Flynn vest, tuck the folded zipper end into the collar casing. Use a needle and thread to sew the zipper between the two layers of knitted fabric. Finish seaming the folded collar edge with yarn, or as knitting pattern instructs.

Knot, work in, and trim your thread ends.