Liesl, Version 2

Many of you have seen this version of Liesl at trunk shows or here on the Habu site. It is the same Liesl pattern but without the pockets and with a color change approximately 4″ below the armhole BO.

For the size med you’ll need about 600 yards of the bottom color and 300 yards for the top. Sample was knitted in A-188 color 4 for the bottom and A-111 color 10 for the top.


  1. Becky Farmer

    I got the original pattern and yarn to begin this project last year. I began it and got stymied with the mitered decreases and the pockets. Tecniques I had never tried before. Now I am trying once again I hope to be successful this time. I love the look of the finished piece.
    This pattern is intriguing as it eliminates one of my obstacles. Is there any alterations to the pattern aside from NOT doing the pockets?

    • Hi, no pockets and a color change. But if you just forge ahead you can do both the MD’s and the pockets! Don’t over-think, just follow blindly and I think the lightbulb will go on;-)

    • Becky farmer

      Well. I omitted the pockets for piece of mind. Now I am to the separation of front & back. The BO 1 stitch on each armhole edge, is it done with the same bias construction?
      Or is that even possible ?

  2. Becky farmer

    Still blindly following. My fingers are crossed. The light bulb is on. Albeit a little dim. Lol
    But progress is being made.

  3. Yes, you will do Bias BO for all the armhole and neckline BOs. This avoids the stair-step edge.

  4. Nancy

    Becky, my Liesl 1 took a giant amount of “stop thinking, shut up and knit” and I LOVE the result! Go for it. If you are on Ravelry you can see it at

    Good luck, hope it’s done by now.

    – a fellow “just follow the pattern” knitter

  5. 2styx

    Where oh where are you guys getting the pattern for the Leisl variation?
    Cocoknits links to Habu and Habu refers back to Cocoknits. Phooey.
    I don’t want to just omit the pocket part of the pattern in case that’s a mistake.

  6. kathy

    I am knitting the original liesl in euroflax linen. The resulting fabric has a significant twist/bias at the sideseams, all the way up, from the bottom to the arm opening. It is far more pronounced on one side than the other. I believe I completed the mitered decreases properly. However, I did not change anything with either MD (i.e. reverse from left to right side). I’ve combed comments on Ravelry and don’t find anyone else has had this problem. I must be missing something very fundamental! What am I overlooking to get such a bias/twist up the entire length, to the underarm??

    • Hi, While my original Liesl had no bias, I’ve heard that Euroflax does sometimes have a bias, it’s due to the spin on the yarn. Usually with linen you can block it out but you can also check with the yarn manufacturer to get their input.

    • Shawn

      Hi. I’m just finishing my top and it has the same twist you described.

    • If it’s knitted with linen you can probably block the bias/twist out. Good luck!

  7. Jill Spencer

    I’m feeling very novice trying to figure out how to do the pockets. Do I use to sets of needles? After doing the first 31 sts on smaller needles, do I just keep knitting that pocket back and forth? Help!

    • You use the smaller needles to knit the pocket lining, then go back to your working needle once you are finished.

  8. Laurie

    I started trying to follow the Liesl pattern and have some questions:

    pattern starts with: “3 rnds Garter st, beg with a p rnd” I thought Garter st is every row is knit. So, I thought I needed to do 3 rows of knit…What does it mean to start with a “p” rnd?

    Later the pattern says to work in “st st” and every 3rd rnd decrease. Does this mean I knit a row, purl a row, knit a row, then on the next purl row decrease? So sometimes I will be decreasing on a knit row and sometimes on a purl row? I started looking at that in a sample and the side seams did not look right. There is no nice line of stitches on each side of the top. In the pictures it looks like there is a noticable different stitch on each side of the garmet.

    Help!! I thought I was an adv intermediate knitter – but this pattern has me confused

    • Hi

      You are not knitting back and forth, you are knitting in the round. Thus purl a round, knit a round. If you knit every round, you get St st…

      Having said that, I always recommend that Liesl be started flat. CO, then do knit flat, back and forth for the first 4 rows before you join and begin to knit in the round for ST st.

      Good luck – it’s pretty straightforward if you don’t overthink it too much;-)

    • Laurie


      Thanks. I thought St St was a round of knit, a round of purl and garter was all rounds of knit. So, I reserved these two. One more question when I am in the st st rounds and not on a decrease, is there a purl stitch at the beginning and mid point of the round? The picture seems to show a kind of “seam” on the sides where the decrease takes place. The instructions sound as if when you are not on a decrease round – you just knit the entire round, but I did not think this would give me that seam look…..

  9. Hi,

    Probably best to CO and get going. I think you’ll see pretty quickly that if you knit a round, purl a round you get Garter st, it’s the opposite of knitting flat.

    Plain rounds are all knit. If you do the MD correctly as written your garment will look like the sample. Once you are working it you should see that-

    Good Luck!

  10. barbara

    i love the modification with the pockets, i have had the pattern for a long time is there an update for those mods. i love all your patterns and how versatile they are, thanks

    • The pattern is written with pockets. If you don’t want pockets just ignore the pocket instructions, there is not really a mod, just skip the pockets or knit them, up to you.

  11. Anne M

    I am knitting Liesl for my daughter with a couple of modifications: she wanted a tighten gauge and no pockets. I am thus knitting it in a 5, not an 8, and made adjustments in the pattern accordingly. However, the hemline is rolling horribly as I knit (I’m about 7 inches in) and I am fearful that it will not press out. I have made this dress on an 8 needle with the same linen yarn and it doesn’t roll–can’t remember if it did when I made it, before pressing. Does making it in a smaller needle cause more rolling and do I HAVE to knit this in the specified, more open gauge? Thank you!

    • Knitting it at a tighter gauge will make it more likely to roll, however I think the the length and weight will counter-act that in the end. Give it a good blocking and I’m pretty sure it’s going to be weighty enough that it will hang down without rolling. Good Luck!

    • Anne M

      Thank you so much!

  12. I just bought is version at a Habu Trunk show! I tried it on and had to have it. For the Habu A-111, did you double the yarn or use a different needle size from the A-188? I am looking forward to casting on this beautiful project!

    • No, the a-188 and a-111 are about the same thickness. I ended up going down a needle size once I got to the split for Front/Back because I always knit much looser back and forth than I do in the round…plus the a-111 stretches a bit.

      good luck!

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